1.

Turn off water and electricity. Cover all exposed surfaces, such as shower floors, bathtubs or cabinets with Warner Drop Cloth(s).

2.

Remove old tiles, wallpaper or contact paper. Scrape off loose paint.

3.

Check for wall damage. Make sure the surface is smooth, dry, clean and structurally sound. If tiling around fixtures, check for water damage and plumbing leaks. Repair plumbing and replace damaged areas.

4.

Clean and patch walls. Remove mold, mildew and dirt. Using a Warner Putty Knife, fill holes, scratches and cracks with caulking compound. Let dry and sand smooth with a Warner #436 Wood Block Sander.

5.

On both new and old walls, the surface should be sealed. Use a wall primer recommended for tile adhesive. (For best results seal painted surfaces.)

1.

Inspect the surface. Make sure it is smooth, dry, clean and structurally sound.

2.

If wood floors are not a minimum 11/4" thick, add an overlay of exterior plywood. Be sure the floor is free of defects.

3.

Check plumbing. Make any repairs before laying tiles.

4.

Seal the surface. Use a primer recommended for adhesives.

1.

Make a temporary horizontal level starting line at the center of your wall. Extend the line around the room onto other walls to be tiled.

2.

Measure down from your level line to the bottom of your work area. Find the largest measurement (or low point of the floor, tub rim or counter top).

3.

Measure up from the low point one tile height plus 1/8". Place a base line mark at this line.

4.

Draw a level base line at the base line mark. Extend the base line around the room onto other walls to be tiled. Start setting your tile from this line.

NOTE: The 1/8" gap below the bottom row of tile may decrease as you tile away from the base line mark. This gap can be filled with caulk or covered by molding or floor covering during finishing.

5.

Make a dry layout - Make a pattern on a piece of wood or cardboard by laying out approximately 3 feet of tile with Warner #993 or #994 Tile Spacers and mark the pattern. Be sure to include proper room for the grout joint width. Use your pattern to measure up the wall to find where your top tile will be located. If the space between the top of your last full tile is less than a quarter tile, adjust your base line to avoid making sliver cuts. This means the bottom row of tile will also have to be cut to size.

1.

Measure to find the vertical center of your work area on each wall. Make a layout mark.

2.

Draw a vertical line through that mark. Use a square and make sure it is at a 90 degree angle to your horizontal level line. A plumb line or level can also be used.

3.

Make a dry layout using your pattern or measure to the corner of the wall. If the space between your last full tile and the corner is less than a quarter tile, adjust your level vertical line to avoid sliver cuts.

NOTE: Corners may not be square, do your dry layout at top, center and bottom of wall.

4.

Repeat vertical level line procedure on all walls.

NOTE: When doing layout be sure to mark the location of any accessories such as paper holders and towel racks.

1.

Make sure the wall is structurally sound and sealed properly. Replace damaged wall sections with water-proof drywall.

2.

Maintain an 1/8" gap between the bottom of the bottom row of tiles and tub rim or shower floor. You may have to nip the tiles to fit. This is important to get a proper seal when applying caulk.

3.

When locating vertical working lines for tub areas, start on the back wall. Locate the vertical lines on the end walls so that cut tiles are located in the back corners.

4.

Showers must be water tight. Carefully caulk where vertical walls meet floors, corners and around fixtures. Leave an 1/8" gap between tiles and fixtures and fill it with caulk for expansion and settling.

1.

Measure and mark the centers of two opposite walls on the floor. Use the longest parallel walls.

2.

Snap a chalk line between the marks to get a center line on the floor using a Warner #137 Chalk Line Reel or #134 Chalk Line Set.

3.

Measure and mark the centers of the remaining two walls, align your chalk line on the layout marks.

4.

Make sure the layout lines are square. Use a carpenters square to ensure that it crosses the first chalk line at a 90 degree angle.

5.

Snap the second chalk line. Use the center point of your chalk lines for the starting point when setting tiles.

NOTE: If the room is not rectangular, place the chalk lines in the major portion of your room.

6.

Make a dry layout. Be sure to include proper grout joint width in your layout or use spacers. If the distance between the wall and your last tile is less than a quarter tile, adjust your chalk line to avoid sliver cuts.

1.

Apply a thick, even coat of adhesive to one section of your work surface using a Putty Knife or the flat edge of your Warner Adhesive Trowel. Start at the intersection of your working lines. Work in three foot square areas.

2.

Comb the adhesive using the trowel notch size recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. This will leave ridges for better adhesion.

3.

Set the first tile to the intersection of your working lines. Proceed setting the full tiles alternating along each line, working upward and outward in a pyramid shape. Complete one quarter of your work surface before going on to the next section. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the first section is set square. Any error will compound as the tile is set. Use Warner #993 or #994 Tile Spacers on tiles without lugs to ensure uniform joint width. When setting the tiles push straight down using a slight twisting motion. DO NOT slide the tiles into place.

NOTE: If the adhesive starts to skin over before the tile is set, scrape it up and apply new adhesive.

4.

Straighten and level the tiles after each section is set. You may use a hammer and a wood block (at least three tiles long) to tap the tiles level. Look at the grout lines and make sure they are straight. Small adjustments can be made before the adhesive is dry.

5.

Remove all tile spacers when tiles are firmly in place. Clean spacers and use again.

6.

Clean tile surface. IMPORTANT! CAREFULLY wipe tiles to remove all adhesive from the tile face before it dries. DO NOT move the tiles.

NOTE: Make sure the joints are NOT completely filled with adhesive. Otherwise proper grout adhesion will not occur.

1.

After all full tiles are set, cut the required tiles. Use the Warner Tile Cutter Selection Guide below to choose the proper cutter.

NOTE: Use a cardboard pattern for fitting irregular shapes and a pencil to mark the tile.

2.

File all rough edges smooth using a tile file.

3.

Set the cut tiles by spreading adhesive on the back of the tile and set with a twisting motion. Use tile spacers to ensure proper grout line width.

1.

Score across the total length of the tile making sure the score line is visible.

2.

Measure and mark the tile. Be sure to leave space for the grout.

3.

Push or pull the carbide wheel across the entire tile. Keep it firmly against the straight edge while scoring the glazed surface of the tile.

4.

Snap the tile with breaking wings of tool centered over the score line.

1.

Line up tile with top straightedge.

2.

Score the tile with cutting wheel by pulling or pushing slowly but firmly across the tile.

3.

Place breaking wings about 1/2" from either edge of the tile, centered over the score line. Slowly press down on the handle until the tile snaps.

NOTE: Change scoring wheel regularly to ensure a good score and a clean break.

1.

Make a cardboard pattern of the irregular shape.

2.

Trace the pattern onto the tile.

3.

Nip small bits of tile to desired shape. For more accuracy, score the tile first using a Warner #986 Tile Hand Cutter.

NOTE: Wear gloves to protect hands.

1.

Saw on the trace line, using long full strokes to avoid binding. Keep the blade perpendicular to prevent tile cracking.

NOTE: Exert pressure on both forward and reverse strokes.

2.

For center cuts drill hole through tile using a masonry drill bit. Insert the rod saw and cut on the trace line.

1.

Read and follow all instructions and cautions on the grout package. Mix the grout carefully if using dry mix grout.

2.

Apply the grout working in three foot square sections. Use a Warner #977 Rubber Float or Warner #996 Tile Grout Spreader to work the grout firmly into the joints. Use a diagonal motion across the tiles. Go over each area several times to be sure the grout is worked into the joints.

3.

Remove excess grout. Use the edge of your float or spreader to squeegee as much grout from the tile surface as possible. Use a diagonal motion to avoid pulling the grout from the joints.

4.

Sponge off tile face after the grout has firmed up (approximately 1/2 hour). Use a damp sponge to wipe the tile face clean. Be careful not to sponge the grout from the joints. CAUTION: Remove all grout from tile face before it dries completely.

5.

Buff tile face. Allow the sponged tile face to dry, then buff the tile with clean dry cloth or cleaning pad to ensure tile face is clean.

6.

Allow the grout to dry. Follow instructions recommended by the grout manufacturer (usually 48 hours).

NOTE: When recessed grout line is desired, allow grouted joint to firm up, then use a ridged object with a round end to dress the joints.

NOTE: Tiled area should cure at least 48 hours before sealing.

1.

Apply caulk around moldings, tubs, faucets, toilets and anything that requires protection against moisture. Allow the caulk to dry.

2.

Seal the grout joints using a silicone grout sealer. Read and follow the instructions and cautions recommended by the sealer manufacturer. Apply as directed. Allow the sealer to dry.

3.

Buff the tile. Use a clean, soft cloth or towel to remove sealer film from tile face. This restores the original luster to the tile surface.

1.

Turn off water and electricity, remove all fixtures. Cover all exposed surfaces, such as shower floors, bathtubs or cabinets using a Warner #469-472 Drop Cloth.

2.

Prepare the surface. Use a Warner #988 Grout Saw to remove the grout from between the damaged tiles.

3.

Remove the damaged tiles. First try to pry off the damaged tiles. (Be careful not to damage good tiles.) Heat may be used to soften the glue behind the tiles. For firmly fastened tiles, you may have to use a chisel (start at the center of the tile and carefully chisel to the outside edges of the tile).

4.

Remove old adhesive by scraping or sanding until surface is smooth. Wipe with damp sponge.

5.

Reapply adhesive. Follow the instructions for applying adhesive. For single tiles you may apply adhesive to the back of the tile. Set tiles using the spacers to help center the tile. Allow to dry thoroughly.

6.

Reapply grout. Follow Grouting The Tile instructions.

1.

Turn off water and electricity, remove all fixtures. Cover all exposed surfaces, such as shower floors, bathtubs or cabinets.

2.

Remove the old cracked and crumbling grout using a Warner #988 Grout Saw. Remove grout at least 1/8" deep. For best results remove all grout in the joint. As a precaution, also check for loose tiles.

3.

Brush or vacuum all joints and wipe clean with a damp sponge.

4.

Reapply grout, follow Grouting The Tile instructions. Apply caulk where necessary.