Click here for a list of things you need for your wallcovering project.

INTRODUCTION TO WALLCOVERING

Terms you should know to help you select your wallcovering:

 

Vinyl wallcoverings are wallcoverings which have a printed vinyl surface coating or a vinyl film bonded to a cloth or paper backing. Many are now available with strippable or peelable backing for easy removal.

 

Traditional Wallpaper has a printed paper surface and is rarely used anymore.

 

NOTE: There are many other wallcoverings such as mylars, foils, flocked fabrics, natural fibers, etc. Identify the specific type which you have purchased and consult with your dealer or refer to the instructions furnished by the manufacturer for special hanging information.

 

WALLCOVERING ADHESIVES

 

NOTE: Because there are many kinds of adhesives, consult your wallcovering dealer for the proper adhesive to use with your particular wallcovering.

 

Ready or premixed adhesives come ready to use. These adhesives are usually sold in specific types for each type of wallcovering.

 

Powder or dry mix adhesives must be mixed with water and allowed a recommended amount of time to activate.

 

Clear, non-staining adhesives are used on specific types of wallcoverings to prevent staining and adhesive show-through. Paste activators or prepasted adhesives are used on prepasted wallcoverings to activate the paste without the mess of a watertray.

 

Surface prep products are sealers and primers used to improve adhesion to porous surfaces, glossy surfaces and surfaces with poor paint.

 

ESTIMATING HOW MUCH WALLCOVERING YOU WILL NEED

Wallcovering comes in single and double rolls. They are normally priced by single rolls and sold in double rolls. Dealers will usually cut a single roll for you.

 

American single rolls contain approximately 35 sq. ft., European or metric single rolls contain approximately 28 sq. ft. For your purpose, assume approximately 30 sq. ft. of coverage per single American roll because of pattern match and waste.

1. Measure the walls and figure the total surface area to be covered (square feet).

 

 

2. Divide surface area by 30, this will give you the number of American single rolls you will need to purchase.

 

 

NOTE: Remember metric rolls are smaller. Add 25% to the number of American rolls for the same coverage. For more accurate results, make a room layout and bring it to your wallcovering retailer. Check the run number or dye lot number and keep a record in case you need to reorder.

 

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECK LIST

 

NOTE: All Warner tools are not available in all retail outlets. Ask your sales representative for assistance when choosing drywall tools.

Warner tools offers a complete tool set for wallcovering. Warner #489 Prep 'N Hang Wallcovering Set comes with a complete set of tools for preparing surface and hanging wallcoverings. Warner #494 Prep 'N Hang Prepasted Wallcovering Set comes with a complete set of tools for surface preparation and hanging of prepasted wallcovering.

 

MATERIALS

  • Spackle
  • Surface preparation (primer, sealer or size)
  • Wallcovering adhesive

 

PLANNING AND WALL PREP TOOLS

  • Warner #286/296 Measuring Tape
  • 900 series Putty Knife
  • Warner #436 Sanding Block
  • Warner #390 or #391 Foam Sanding Block
  • Warner #552 Paint Roller Tray
  • Warner #471 or #472 Plastic Drop Cloth
  • Warner #137 Chalk Line Reel
  • Screwdriver
  • Step ladder
  • Level

 

HANGING TOOLS

  • Warner #90 Scissors
  • Warner #117 Trigger Action Knife
  • Warner #548 Wallpaper Tray (for pre-pasted) or Warner #563 Mini Roller with Tray
  • Warner #498 Smoother
  • Warner #199 10" Stainless Steel Smoother/Trimmer
  • Warner #422 Flat Roller or Warner #230 Plastic Roller or Warner #416 Wallcovering Seam Roller
  • Warner #540 Quart Plastic Pail
  • Warner #449 Sponge
  • Warner #293 Bubble Stick/Straight Edge
  • Cutting board and raised working surface or pasting table

WALLCOVERING REMOVAL TOOLS

Wallcovering steamer (Warner #5687 Steamer can be rented from your local paint dealer or hardware store) and broad knife

-OR-

Warner #690 or #691 or #693 Big Blade Stripper

-OR-

Chemical removers and Warner #500 or #180 series Broad Knife

 

PLANNING THE PROJECT

There are two main things to consider when planning the project, the wallcovering pattern and room layout.

 

WALLCOVERING PATTERN

There are three types of pattern matches:

1. Straight across match (all objects line up straight across the paper).

 

 

2. Drop match (the objects on the paper run diagonally across the paper, every other strip is the same at the ceiling).

 

 

3. Random or non-matching (no match to the pattern). Hang every other strip up-side-down for best color match at the seams.

To avoid drawing attention to the ceiling line, start your first strip with a full pattern object at the ceiling whenever possible. Then match the pattern with additional strips. (If the ceiling is not level, more or less of the pattern will show at the ceiling line.)

 

ROOM LAYOUT

Time spent planning the room layout will make the job easier and save you money.

1. Carefully plan where the LAST strip will be hung. If you are doing the whole room, expect a pattern mismatch at that point. If possible try to locate above a door, above a window or in a corner which is not the focal point of the room.

2. After you select where the mismatch will be, measure the width of the wallcovering and measure from your end location around the room placing light pencil marks on the wall where your seams will fall.

3. After you have placed the marks on the wall you can move your end point a few inches in either direction to avoid tricky spots such as putting a seam tight on a casing or wasting most of a full sheet over a window or door. If possible, allow at least 6" around the corners, this will help when you cut and overlap at the corner (see corner instructions). Remark all seam locations and review room layout. You may have to do this several times before you are comfortable with the location of the strips.

4. Select your starting point where you can hang two full sheets whenever possible.

5. After you have selected your starting point, use a Warner #293 Bubble Stick and Warner #134 Chalk Line Reel to make a plumb line from floor to ceiling.

 

NOTE: Don't use a corner because they are normally not plumb. When making the plumb line use a "sharp" pencil - NOT A PEN OR MARKER - because the pen or marker may bleed through the wallpaper. An accurate plumb line is very important. Any error will compound itself and make your pattern crooked.

 

 

HANGING THE WALLCOVERING

CUT THE WALLCOVERING TO LENGTH

1. Before you start to cut your wallcovering, unroll each roll and inspect the pattern for flaws and tears. Reroll it, pattern side in, this will help remove the curl.

2. Measure the starting wall height in three places, the two outside edges and the center. Use the largest dimension. After you have decided which part of the pattern you want at the ceiling, add two inches to the top and two inches to the bottom, then cut the strip.

 

 

3. To assure that you are cutting your strips the proper length and maintaining the proper pattern match, start the second strip using your first strip as a guide. Match the pattern to the top of your first strip. Trim the excess off the top of the second strip. Now roll out the second strip to the same length as the first strip and cut. Hang the first strip. Save the second to help you with the third and so on. (If you have a 6" or longer drop match you may be able to avoid waste by alternating between rolls.)

 

ACTIVATE OR APPLY THE ADHESIVE

1. Before applying adhesive or activating the paste on prepasted wallcovering, read instructions from the manufacturer carefully. Some wallcoverings require special adhesives or special instructions. For general information, see the following steps 2, 3, and 4. (Prepasted wallcovering may be activated with adhesive activators. Consult your wallcovering retailer.)

2. To activate the paste on prepasted wallcovering, place the Warner #471 or Warner #472 Drop Cloth and Warner #540 10-Quart Plastic Pail next to your raised work surface, fill it with water. Roll your strip pattern side in, submerge the wallcovering completely for the time recommended by the manufacturer. Grasp the top edge of the strip. Slowly pull the strip unrolling the wallcovering under the water. Lay the strip on your work surface pattern side down. Inspect to make sure the entire strip is wet. If not, lightly sprinkle water on dry spots.

3. After the paper is wet, it must have time for the paste to form and allow the wallcovering to relax. Fold the top 1/4 of the strip to the center, paste side to paste side, with the edges even. Gently smooth flat, repeat with the bottom 1/4 of the strip. Allow it to sit for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually about five minutes). This is called booking the strip.

CAUTION: Do not crease the folds and avoid touching the edges of the strip, your fingers may remove the paste from the seams. The manufacturer may recommend that you roll the booked wallcovering or place it in a large plastic bag to avoid the paste from drying out on the edges.

4. When applying adhesive, lay the wallcovering, pattern side down, on your work surface. Using a Warner #456 Paste Roller, Warner brush, out of the Warner #489 Prep 'N Hang Wallcovering Set, using a Warner #456 Paste Roller or a Warner Brush from the Warner #489 Prep 'N Hang Wallcovering set, apply the recommended adhesive evenly on the wallcovering. (Carefully cover the complete strip including edges without paste build up.) Apply the adhesive to the strip working from the center to the outside edges. Book the strip after the adhesive is applied. Always follow the instructions provided by the adhesive manufacturer. You can be sure you have enough adhesive if the strip slides easily on the wall.

 

NOTE: Pasting the wall has some advantages when hanging certain types of wallcoverings.

 

CAUTION: Consult with your wallcovering retailer before attempting this type of application. It does not work for all wallcoverings.

 

HANGING THE STRIP

1. After the strip has been booked for the appropriate time, unfold the top half of the strip, line the edge of the strip on your plumb line. Remember to allow for the 2" overlap on the ceiling. Smooth the upper part of the strip and push it up tight to the ceiling. Now recheck the edge to the plumb line and smooth the top half of the strip.

 

NOTE: Using your Warner #498 Smoother start at the top and plumb side of your strip, smooth down and across being careful to keep the paper tight on the plumb line of butted seam. (See illustration.)

 

 

2. Unfold the bottom of the strip and smooth down the bottom portion making sure the strip is aligned with the plumb line. Then smooth the entire surface of the strip working the bubbles to the edge of the strip. If the strip is not aligned with the plumb line, gently lift half the strip from the wall and realign.

 

TRIMMING

1. Press the wall covering tight at the ceiling line and baseboard using your Warner #199 Trim Guide.

2. Trim off the excess paper.

 

NOTE: To get a good trim line, press the strip firmly into the corner of the ceiling or baseboard with the Warner #199 Trim Guide and maintain a sharp edge on the cutting blade. (Make only 2 or 3 cuts per blade edge.)

 

 

CLEAN THE STRIP

Before you move to the next strip, wipe excess adhesive from the wallcovering, ceiling and moldings with a Warner #449 Sponge or soft cloth.

 

ROLLING THE SEAMS

After the adhesive has begun to set (approximately 20 minutes) roll the seam LIGHTLY with your Warner #230, #416 or #422 Seam Roller. Avoid squeezing out paste. Sponge seam after to clean paste that may have squeezed out.

 

CAUTION: Rolling seams on flocked or embossed wallcoverings may damage them. Tap the seams softly with a Warner Smoothing Brush or use a smoother designed for soft surface wallcoverings.

 

SPECIAL AREAS

DOORS, WINDOWS, ETC.

 

"DO NOT" try to precut the strip to fit tight to the subject. Instead, allow it to overlap the edge, then make diagonal cuts to the corner of the door, window, etc. Use your Warner #199 Trim Guide to press the wallcovering tight. Then trim with a Warner #117 Trigger Action Knife. Match the pattern above and below the object being careful to keep the strips plumb.

 

 

OUTLETS AND SWITCHES

CAUTION: Turn off electricity. Remove cover plates. Hang wallcovering over outlet box. Trim around inside of opening taking care not to cut opening larger than cover plate.

 

 

CORNERS

Because corners frequently are not plumb, do not wrap a whole strip or wallcovering around a corner. Measure the distance from the last strip hung to the corner. Take this measurement from three places; top, bottom and middle of the wall. Add 1/2" to the widest measurement, cut your new strip to this total measurement. Save the strip left over. Hang the first strip which will overlap the new wall by 1/2". Make a diagonal cut in the 2" overhang at the top and bottom in the corner. Smooth and trim the strip. Measure out from the corner the width of the leftover strip. Make a new plumb line. Hang the leftover strip by lining it up with the new plumb line. Smooth, trim, wipe and hang your next strip.

 

 

CEILINGS

If you are covering the ceiling, hang the ceiling before the side walls. Measure out from the wall the width of the wallcovering less 2" and make a line. The length of the strip should also extend down each wall 2". Putting ceiling wallcovering up is the same as doing a wall except you need a second person to help hold the wallcovering.

 

BORDERS

To hang borders, cut to convenient lengths; paste, book and trim as recommended by the manufacturer. Hang, keeping the top close to the ceiling. Start 1" or so from the corner. Prepare an accordion file with the border to make the unraveling process easier. Go around the corner and butt the ends of the strips matching the patterns.

 

ARCHWAYS

 

The rectangular arch - the trick here is to plan the adjacent walls so that strips bordering the archway hang in positions that make it easy to wrap the arch itself.

Measure from one corner across or from the middle of the arch to the corners. Do whichever is easier.

The strips adjacent to the side of the archway should overlap the arch enough to cover the inside archway surface. This will leave only small header strips above the arch. These should be long enough to overlap the underside of the arch. Finally, you'll need to cover the end surfaces of covering on the face of the arch.

 

The curved archway - Curved archways are dealt with much the same as rectangular arches, except that the inside surface must be covered with a totally separate piece of material.

The headers are hung so the excess material hangs down into the archway approximately 2". The overlapping material must have a small cut every 1" so that it will conform to the curve of the arch.

The inside will require two strips cut to run from the top center of the arch and down either side to the floor or baseboard. They should be wide enough to cover the overlapping material from the headers and the border strips. If you're using vinyl wallcovering, you'll need vinyl to vinyl adhesive along the overlap.

 

 

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