The invention of drywall opened all new possibilities for do-it-yourselfers tackling home improvement and construction. Drywall is extensively used in homes of all price ranges because it allows you to create sturdy, efficient walls and ceilings at a fraction of the cost and hassle of plaster. Plus, drywall takes paint and wallpaper easily. And, as you will see, it's easy to install. Leave enough time, though, to do the job right. A professional looking job will take a good three days, so take your time.

Tools and materials checklist

NOTE: All Warner tools are not available in all retail outlets. Ask your sales representative for assistance when choosing drywall tools. Here's a checklist of the tools and materials you'll want to gather before you begin. As you will notice, a variety of options are available and many of the tools are specifically designed for certain parts of the job. If you are unsure of how to use a specific Warner tool, talk to your salesperson. Remember to always be aware of state and local codes for building before you begin, and always work with an eye to safety.

WARNING: Wear safety glasses and a dust respirator approved for drywall dust when sanding or working around drywall compound dust.

CAUTION: These instructions are to be used as a general guide only. When local building codes apply, check for exact specifications.

TOOLS

• Warner #350 Utility Knife
• Warner #190 Corner Taping Knife
• Warner #526 series Broad Knife (choose a 4"- 6" blade)
• Warner #278 Offset Joint Knife or Warner #200 series Wood Handle Taping Knife
• Warner #231 Drywall Circle Cutter or Warner #225 Keyhole Utility Saw or Warner #220 Drywall Saw
• Warner #213 Drywall Hammer
• Warner #342 Mud Masher or Warner #340, 341, 343, or 345 Electric Drill Mixer
• Warner #208 Hand Sander or Warner #209 Pole Sander
• Warner #190 series Blue Steel Taping Knife

MATERIALS

• Warner #206 Galvanized or #207 Stainless Steel Mud Pan or Warner #221 Plastic Mud Pan for Electric Drill Mixers
• Warner #177 or #178 Drywall Tape
• Warner #543 5-gallon buckets for clean water
• Nails or drywall screws
• Drywall screw adapter
• Drywall tool pouch
• Pre-mixed joint compound (5 gals = 1000 sq. ft. drywall)
• Drywall corner tape
• Rectangular trowel (8"-12" blade)
• Extension pole
• Pre-cut drywall sandscreen or sandpaper
• Water based sealer or paint
• Metal inside corner strips
• Safety goggles
• Dust mask

ESTIMATING MATERIALS

You will save time and money by doing a layout of your project. Plan to use the largest size sheet of drywall that will span the ceiling and wall surfaces. This will reduce the number of joints that must be filled.

Start by making a sketch of your work area. Measure and figure the square footage, length x width, of each surface. Do not deduct for window and door openings. Divide the total square footage by one sheet (32 sq. ft. = 4'x8'. 48 sq. ft. = 4'x12'. These sizes are most common). This will give you an estimate of how many sheets you will need.

Draw the sheet layout on your sketch to reduce cutting and to place the joints in inconspicuous areas.

NOTE: Horizontal application is preferred by most installers, because it reduces joints and increases strength.

Use formulas below for rough estimates:

Screws: 200 screws per 100 square feet or

Nails: 1/2 pound of nails per 100 square feet.

Premixed Joint Compound: 6 pounds per 100 square feet.

Joint Tape: 30 feet per 100 square feet.

Special metal outside and inside corner beads are available to improve the strength of corners.

What is Drywall Anyway?

Drywall goes by many names, including gypsum wallboard, plasterboard and sheetrock. By any name, drywall is gypsum plaster sandwiched between heavy sheets of paper. Each board is 4 feet wide to fit a standard 16" frame width. Length varies from 6" to 16".

Drywall also comes in a variety of thickness' to match your application. If you are covering an existing ceiling or wall, 1/4" is commonly used. For new 2-ply construction, 3/8" drywall is used, and for new single-ply construction, 1/2" and 5/8" is used. As you may expect, you'll get better sound proofing and fire resistance from a 5/8" board.

You'll find gypsum drywall with square, tapered or beveled edges. The tapered and beveled edges let you fill and tape quickly and easily, for invisible seams.

Installing Your Drywall

Make sure your framing is true, with standard 16" centers. If your work is not square, a quality drywall job will be very difficult.

Start with the ceiling first, installing your drywall at right angles to your joists.

Move to the walls next, starting at the ceiling and working down so you have a good ceiling seam. Any rough cuts at the floor will be covered by the baseboard. You may install the drywall vertically or horizontally, although most professionals prefer horizontal installation; it means less taping, and less taping means fewer seams.

Cutting and Fastening

Measure the length of drywall you need and use a Warner #350 Utility Knife to make a score. When you bend the drywall at the score, it will easily snap. Cut along the back of the break with your utility knife for a clean edge. For odd shapes like corners or circles, use the Warner #220 Wallboard Saw, #225 Keyhole Utility Saw or #231 Drywall Circle Cutter.

Apply pressure to the drywall at the point where you're working to maintain good contact between your drywall and the frame.

You can attach your drywall to your 2x4 frame using 1 1/4" annual ring nails with 1/4" head or drywall screws, but we strongly recommend screws since they won't pop as the frame dries. Nails or screws and fasteners should be placed at least 7" on center for ceilings and 8" on center for walls.

If you use nails, use a Warner #213 Drywall Hammer or a hatchet so you get uniform dimples, and drive them at least 3/8" away from the edges of the drywall. Place your nails 2" apart on 12" centers and single nail the perimeter of your board. Re-stroke your first nail after setting your second nail so the first nail sets firmly.

After installing all drywall, go back over each panel to make sure it's snug. If you find areas of separation, use extra fasteners to tighten it up.

Reinforce all outside corners with metal inside corner strips, which makes your corners straight and workable when you use corner tape.

You are now ready to begin taping.

Getting Your Joint Compound Ready

Fortunately, joint compound comes ready made in 5-gallon, 1-gallon and quart containers. You'll need to mix the compound using Warner #342 Mud Masher or a Warner Electric Drill Mixer tool with your electric drill. Mix the compound until it's smooth.

After pouring a generous amount into your Warner #206 Galvanized, #207 Stainless Steel or #221 Plastic Mud Pan, seal the original compound container so it doesn't dry out. (We recommend using the Galvanized Mud Pan so drying lumps won't make your later applications unnecessarily difficult.)

Keep a Warner #543 5-gallon pail full of water so you can continually rinse your tools, allowing the compound to go on smoothly as you work.

Taping and Applying Joint Compound

Before you begin taping, make sure your drywall surface is dry, clean and free of dust. The tape is applied to the surface without joint compound. After positioning Warner #177 or #178 Drywall Tape to the seam, press the tape firmly from top to bottom and cut the tape off using a Warner #350 Utility Knife at the bottom of each seam. The object is to minimize lumps, so avoid overlapping your tape.

Use a Warner #278 Offset Taping Knife to spread just enough joint compound along the seam so it just covers the tape. The compound dries quickly, so you will only be able to fill and smooth about 15 to 20 feet at a time.

To embed the tape firmly, hold the blade as flat as you can to the surface of your drywall and use firm pressure as you press along the joint. Then smooth the excess compound along the edges, starting at the middle of your taped seam, and working out to both sides. Your goal is to have a flat, fairly smooth and wet surface, which you will now allow to dry for one full day. Any uneven areas can be sanded after they have dried.

Taping and Applying Joint Compound to Inside Corners

Fold your paper tape into a "V" length-wise. Then, working top-to-bottom, attach one side of the "V" onto about 12" of the appropriate wall, then attach the corresponding side of the "V" to the other wall. Every 12", start attaching the tape with the alternate side of the "V".

Apply your joint compound on one side at a time, working again from top to bottom. The Warner #190 Corner Taping Knife will make your work easier. You should again end with a flat, fairly smooth and wet surface, which you will allow to dry for 24 hours. Any unevenness can be sanded out at that time.

Taping and Applying Joint Compound to Outside Corners

Metal reinforced outside corner tape allows you to make a straight and strong corner joint. You can cover it with a joint compound in the same way as other drywall tape.

It's important that you spread a moderate amount of the compound to the outside corner tape and then feather this compound into the wall about 6". The tape will give the corner a smooth angle to match the smooth surface of the compound. Dry again for 24 hours, after which you may sand uneven areas.

Filling Nail Heads

Use just enough pressure when filling screw and nail heads so almost no compound can be seen around your dimple. Dry for 24 hours. Sanding Sand after 24 hours, when the seams are dry and hard, and the compound has shrunk slightly. Sand any irregularities using a Warner #208 Hand Sander and a medium sandscreen. You should sand enough to eliminate nibs, but avoid sanding the paper. Roughed paper of the drywall may show through the paint you apply later.

The Top Coat of Joint Compound

Apply an 8" to 10" wide top coat with a Warner #190 series Blue Steel Taping Knife, feathering the edges out into the drywall. Like the initial coating, the top coating will also shrink, so create a slight crown down the middle of the seam.

Leave all imperfections this time, and proceed to add a second coat to all screw and nail heads, allowing them a full day to dry.

If you find after 24 hours that your crown did not shrink as much as you expected, sand the compound (avoiding the drywall paper) until it is flat and even.

The Final Coat of Joint Compound

The final coat is applied in much the same way as the top coat, but use a very thin layer, and this time, feather 10" to 12" into the drywall. This final coat will eliminate unevenness and imperfections, which will show shadows if they are not filled. When this is dry, sand it slightly, once again avoiding the drywall paper.

Congratulations. Your drywall job is finished.

How To Repair Cracks and Damage

Holes under 1" can be easily repaired with your joint compound or spackle. Allow the filler you use to dry, coat it with joint compound using a Warner #278 Joint Knife, and then dry overnight before lightly sanding. You can then use a water-based sealer and paint.

For major damage, use a Warner #171 Drywall Repair Kit, and follow the instructions.

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